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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred names. Yet, nestled high among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu situated in a distant part of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. The recognition has left the owners totally shocked.

“I am totally shocked,” says the family member, referring to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their humble shop securing such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has kept much of its original charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the fare, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this culinary achievement.